FAQ

The pump is going to be the most important piece of equipment you purchase for your water garden. It is the main source of water circulation and keeping your waters ecosystem healthy. Because it is continually running, you want it to be both dependable and energy efficient.  

The pump is based on the size of your pond and the pumping capacity in gallons per hour (gph). The pump should circulate the ENTIRE volume of the pond at least every hour. So, for example, if you have a 1000 gallon pond, you will need a pump that handles at least 1000 gph. For water clarity and fish health, however, more extensive circulation is better-- we aim for the total turnover of the pond 1.5 - 2x an hour. A pump of 1500 to 2000 gph would serve a 1000-gallon pond better than a 1000gph pump.

Still not sure? When in doubt, purchase a slightly more powerful pump, as you can always slow or divert the flow of a pump, but you can’t increase it. Read our article on pump sizing here for a more in-depth breakdown.

To determine the gallons of water in a square or rectangular pond:  Multiply the average length x average width x average depth x 7.5 = gallons of water.

To determine the gallons of water in a circular pond:  Multiply (half the diameter) x (half the diameter) x 3.14 x depth x 7.5 = gallons of water.

We really, really discourage turning off pond pumps at night. While the idea of saving money on electricity is compelling, it's really bad for pond health; the pump is what powers the ponds filtration system and aerates the pond.

Koi and goldfish are dirty fish and require high water turnover. Fish wastes such as ammonia are toxic to the fish in high doses, so if they aren't being filtered out fairly continuously, you may experience fish deaths. Additionally, the beneficial bacteria living in the waterfalls/biofilter (assuming a traditional pond set-up) will die when they dry out: turning off your pump at night would be a daily reset of the biological filter, leading to problems with water clarity.

Aeration is especially important at night. While the nighttime air is cooler, water retains heat for longer, so pond water remains quite warm throughout the night - and it is more difficult for oxygen to dissolve in warm water. Additionally, plants aren't photosynthesizing in the dark, so they're not adding any oxygen to the system (actually, this is the time of day plants use oxygen and expel carbon dioxide, furthering oxygen depletion of the pond). Because of these factors, it's really important the pump run through the night to aerate the pond, or else you might suffocate your fish.

Green water is generally caused by Planktonic Algae, which is floating microscopic plants suspended in your water.    

This organism typically occurs when there is an imbalance (high amount) of nitrates and phosphate levels in pond water, providing algae with nutrients to grow and in some conditions, THRIVE!

Short-term treatments: We suggest using an algicide, such as Algae D-Solve. However, we highly recommend giving your pond at least 24 hours of vigorous aeration BEFORE adding any products, and continuing aeration through the day of application. Algae die-offs can quickly deoxygenate your pond, so aeration is really important, especially in the warmer months when it is already more difficult for oxygen to dissolve in the water.

Long-term treatments: Algae blooms are caused by excessive nutrients in your water garden. Removing these nutrients can greatly reduce your chance of future algae blooms.  

• Using a natural bacteria helps by consuming floating and bottom organic nutrients which in turn keep your pond crystal clear.  
• Adding water plants to 40-60% of your water can help consume extra nutrients, as well as shading your pond from algae-feeding direct sunlight.
• Add a UV CLARIFIER: if you find that you are continually struggling with green water, or just don’t want to have to worry about your water having an algae bloom, a UV clarifier is definitely the way to go. UV Clarifiers basically pump the water past a UV light, which “zaps” the algae as it passes. Sizing UV Clarifiers appropriately is also important, as too fast of a flow through the clarifier won't effectively kill the algae, but too slow of a flow will completely sterilize your water, killing all the beneficial bacteria in your pond, too. An appropriately sized UV Clarifier guarantees clear water even in the hottest, sunniest days of summer.

String algae is a slimy, bright green algae that can grow up to a few feet in length. It clings to the side of the pond, pots, and other surfaces. Unlike green water algae, you can literally hold this type in your hand. String algae tends to be a real problem, as it removes nutrients from the water, can smother plants and clog filters, and tends to be aesthetically displeasing.

Prevention is key. Barley straw is wonderful for deterring the growth over the course of the season, but you can also add a beneficial bacteria directly to the string algae for a quick fix.

Other preventative measures would be: 

• Decreasing the number of fish, 
• Reducing the amount of sunlight reaching your pond
• Adding plants to the surface (which provide resource competition and shade)
• Keeping up with a beneficial bacteria (enzyme)
• Adding snails or tadpoles to water 
• Increasing the scope of your filtration, such as the size/filtration capacity of your biological filter

Adding pond salt to your ponds water has many benefits. The most important is providing an excellent source treatment for weak or stressed fish. The salt reduces stress, adds electrolytes, and also improves gill function. It can also treat several different infections and illnesses. The usual dosage is about 1 ¼ cups per 100 gallons of water in ponds with plants, and 2 ½ cups per 100 gallons of water in ponds without plants.

Aeration in the form of waterfalls or bottom placed aerators give fish the oxygen they need. Aeration also helps with water circulation and speeds up the breakdown of organic materials in the pond, increasing water quality and general clarity.

Aeration is also important for the winter months, as the water disturbance helps prevent the surface from freezing completely, allowing toxins to be released.

In the fall, we suggest adding a leaf net over your pond to catch the falling leaves so they do not get into your pond water. It's important to keep this net above water level, so that leaves do not get wet and shed/break down in your pond, which can turn your water a "tea" color. Make sure to remove the leaves often, as they will accumulate quickly, and can sag the net down.

Keeping leaves out of the pond is important both for aesthetics and easy pond maintenance come spring, but also because their decomposition over the winter months can release toxic gases that, in large enough amounts, can kill your fish.

In the winter, we suggest bringing your pumps, UV lights, and any other equipment in. Keeping your pump and UV light from freezing helps them have a long service life. We also recommend adding an aerator (and possibly heating stone) to your pond. The aerator will keep oxygen flow into the water as well as prevent the pond from freezing over completely. If you find your pond freezes hard, the heating stone will keep an open hole in the ice to allow gas exchange.

Absolutely! Water plants are essential to a healthy water ecosystem, whether they are surface or potted. Pond plants feed on fish waste, which in turn lowers the algae growth as the plants and algae compete for resources. This becomes even more important if your pond is in direct sunlight. But that’s not all the plants do for your pond. Along with slowing the growth of algae, plants provide cover for your fish. We suggest covering your pond with between 40-60% plants. Many don’t realize that Koi can actually get sunburned if not protected, and the cover also gives them a place to hide from critters such as heron, raccoons, etc.

Feeding your fish pretty much goes by the temperature of the water, not the temperature of the air. The following is a general scale based on water temperature.

Water temperature:

85⁰ and above:  Stop Feeding

65⁰-85⁰: Feed 2-3 Times Daily

50⁰-65⁰: Feed 1-2 Times Daily

Common Guidelines for feeding:  

We stop feeding during some temperatures because when temperatures are extreme, fish tend to go dormant.  As they need to be moving through the water to digest food, being inactive makes this very difficult and can lead to many different issues.

Spring Feeding: Fish are starting to wake, and are slowing gaining momentum, so during this time, easily digestible (wheat germ) diets are best.

Early Fall:  While Fish are still active, it’s a good time to bulk up for winter storage with a high protein diet. 

Late Fall: As the fish start their slow down, the best food for this time is an easily digested diet (Wheat Germ)

During the summer they can have a complete nutrition diet, including color enhancing, growth and advanced diets-- although it may be a good idea to skip a feeding on a scorching summer day, when fish are lethargic.

It's important not to overfeed your fish, for water quality reasons; anything your fish don't eat becomes pretty direct fertilizer for algae. The general rule of thumb is to feed fish only what they'll eat in 1-3 minutes, and to skim out any leftovers.

It is all too easy to overcrowd a backyard pond. Between ambitious adoption, natural fish growth, and successful fish spawns, many pond owners end up with too many fish, which is bad for water quality and clarity.

There are a few possible rules of thumb for estimating fish capacity:

1. One 6-inch fish for every 100 gallons of water
   
   Or
   
2. 1 inch of fish for every 10 gallons of water
   
   Or
   
3. 1 inch of fish for every square foot of surface area (assuming a 2ft depth for the pond).

Usually, this amounts to 1-2 koi or 2-3 goldfish for the average backyard pond. It's possible to stock more than this, as koi enthusiasts often do, but the filtration system of the pond has to be able to accommodate a heavy fish load.

Koi will be fine with a two-week break in between feedings during the summer months. They can scavenge some nutrition from their environment by nibbling on algae and eating insects. However, it's still a good idea to purchase a slow-release feeding item. Also, if you are able, ask someone to check your pond regularly to ensure the Koi are healthy and your equipment is operating normally.

Depending on climate and conditions, the largest Koi can reach three feet in length. These are known as Jumbo Koi. Japanese Koi reach a length of 22 to 26 inches. Domestic Koi typically mature at a length of 12 to 15 inches.

Thinking that all fish only grow to the size of their environment is a myth. Koi can grow very large, even in cramped quarters. They will grow very rapidly in their first years of life, then slow down to approximately 1-3" a year (in good water conditions). Pond size — along with factors such as water temperature, diet, and health — will impact the rate at which Koi grow. Koi will grow until they reach their hereditary size.

Goldfish follow similar rules. While their growth is constrained by their container, this is not natural or kind. Goldfish are messy fish, and being housed in smaller containers can create poor water quality and prevent fish from growing. Additionally, too small of a container can cause their organs to develop incorrectly, sharply curtailing their lifespan. While they cap out at shorter lengths than their koi cousins, usually around a foot in length, goldfish should still be given ample space to move and grow.

Recommended pond size is based on the size and number of the koi (see "how many fish should I have in my pond?"), but generally, more is better. Steep and deep pond construction is recommended to maximize pond size without eating up too much of the surrounding landscape. We really encourage that at least part of the pond (around a third) be 36" deep or deeper, as this will allow fish to overwinter safely in your pond.

If you have Koi/goldfish, do not pound on the ice to break it up. The shockwaves can cause extreme stress to your fish. Instead, you can boil water and slowly pour it over the thinnest part of ice, or boil water in a pot and set the pot on the ice to slowly melt. 

Either way, keep at it. If you have an aerator and it continues to freeze over, you may need a larger aerator (check the box for pond size to see if it’s compatible with your pond), or to add a heating stone to keep a hole open in the ice.

This could be caused by simple evaporation or possibly a leak. A standard pond or water feature can lose anywhere between 1-3 inches per week. How much water is lost would depend on several factors, such as: Is your pond in direct sunlight? Is it a windy day? Is there a lot of splash factors? Either way, we would consider that pretty normal.

If you’re losing more water than that, this may possibly mean a leak. Here’s a few quick things to try and determine the if and where of the leak:

• Try turning off your pump. Mark your water line and wait 24 hours (it is a good idea to run an aerator during this time), then check the water level again. Are you still losing water? If YES, this would indicate the leak is in the pool part of your pond or water feature. If NO, it may indicate the leak is either in the hose or in your waterfall.
• Look for any pooling around your water feature or yard. If your reservoir (pool part) is leaking, the lost water usually (but not always) accumulates near the source of the leak, or can be traced back to it.
• Try checking the seal around the skimmer box for any leaks. Some screws are prone to rusting out, leaving behind small gaps water can escape through.
• Check the fittings on all the equipment to ensure watertight seals and check all hoses for holes or splits.
• Check the liner along the ends and waterfalls for any folds or tears. Folds in the liner can redirect water up the fold and out of the pond.
• Check the rocks – sometimes the rocks lining the pond can shift and cause water to run out.